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Tips & Techniques
Which Way to Machine Applique?
Tools, Supplies and Preparation
Sewing Machine: Your most important tool! Most of the techniques require your machine to zigzag stitch. For topstitch applique, you need a straight stitch only.
Threads: When you want invisible stitching, thread the machine with .004 nylon monofilament. Otherwise, a #50 thread, the kind you use for piecing, will do. For subtle stitching, match the color to the applique patch. If visibility is desired for decoration, choose a color that contrasts with the patch. Thicker #30 machine embroidery threads, rayons and metallics can also be beautiful. Load the bobbin with #50 or #60 thread. Match the top thread in color or, for monofilament, match the bobbin thread to the background fabric.
Needles: Did you know that the proper needle size depends upon the thread weight? Pair monofilament or #50 thread with a size 65/9 or 70/10 universal needle. If your top thread is #30, rayon or metallic, use a 70/10 or 80/12 needle.
Presser foot: An embroidery foot is recommended for most of the techniques because it has a groove on its underside to accommodate the threadwork. An open-toe embroidery foot works even better because it allows a good view of the stitching as you sew.
Patch preparation: Patches for machine applique usually have their edges prepared before stitching. Secure the 3/16" turn-under allowances with thread basting, pinning, gluing, starch and press or freezer-paper templates. A light mist of spray starch and pressing helps wobbly patches keep their shape while sewing. Where turn under isn't necessary or is not recommended (blanket, zigzag and satin stitches), the patches can be prepared with fusible web if you prefer.
Stabilizers: Satin stitching requires a stabilizer to prevent the fabrics from puckering and to support the heavy stitching. Use a removable kind so it won't get in the way of quilting later. Avoid products that iron on or iron off; any placement markings on your background may be permanently set by the heat of the iron. Safe alternatives are Sulky Tear-Easy™ or a sheet of typing paper pinned to the wrong side of the background fabric. After stitching is complete, gently tear the stabilizer away without tugging the stitches out of shape.
Locking stitches: If you can, begin and end the stitching under another patch by lifting the top one out of the way temporarily. Lock with 1/4" of tiny straight stitches or two backstitches before adjusting the settings for the applique method you are doing.
For the most invisible lock, bring up the bobbin thread, knot the tails by hand and hide them later using a hand-sewing needle.
Fine tuning: Always sew a sample to adjust your thread tension and machine settings so the stitching matches the look you have in mind. Loosening the top tension keeps the bobbin thread from being visible on the surface. On curved patches, stop frequently with the needle down and pivot the fabric for a smooth stitching line.
With so many ways to do attractive applique, speed is no longer the only reason to choose machine applique.
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